Mitchell's Fish Market - Feb 1, 2009

A simpler seafoodery that's well worth the 75 minute drive up to Newport (just outside of Cincinnati), Mitchell's makes it look easy. With its views of the Ohio river (I appreciate the illusion of the seafood joint by the water but it's not as though the lobsters are local) and the nearby Aquarium, the roomy (and on a Sunday afternoon, mostly empty) restaurant was a pleasant retreat.

Our sourdough bread & light-as-air whipped butter made for a great beginning. We ordered the "Kung Pao" fried calamari as a shareable starter and it proved to be one of the better iterations of the ubiquitous, sometimes tired, appetizer. The rings & tentacles were perfectly chewy, the batter crunchy & the Asian sauce a welcome change from marinara sauce. The seared ahi tuna was ultra fresh (it helps to provide your own seafood) and the apricot ale sauce was light and none too sweet.

Lunch entrees were satisfying all around. My tilapia was flaky and complemented nicely by the shrimp jambalaya (more like rice with an etouffee sauce), mushrooms and crunchy green beans. The grilled sea scallops were near perfect (need just a touch more sear) and were a marked contrast from the hockey pucks we were served @ Le Deauville 2 nights prior). Even the kids' items were great as I kept poaching fried shrimp & hush puppies from our 3-year-old lunchmates.

All in all, Mitchell's isn't exotic or interest by any stretch but what they do, they do very well. And being 80 miles from home makes Lexington's noticeable lack of good seafood restaurants all the more galling. Yes, they make it look simple but really, is it all that hard?